Client Question: What are enzymes?

What are enzymes?/ˈenzīm/nouna substance produced by a living organism that acts as a catalyst to bring about a specific biochemical reaction. (Google).

Why would I want to use an enzyme? As we age our skin’s natural ability to renew itself slows down, by exfoliating, we can trick the skin into regenerating more quickly. The reason to choose enzymes over other methods like scrubs is that they are much more gentle, and can take away the most damaging part of scrubbing which is user error. Most enzymes also can soothe irritations because of their anti-inflammatory effects making some formulas a good choice for sensitive skin and even the eye area.

How are enzymes used in skincare?  Enzymes have had a long-standing usage in skincare and are most often used as a naturally occurring exfoliant. Similar to using natural acids in cooking think lemon juice to ‘cook’ the fish in ceviche, we use enzymes to soften the upper layers of the stratum corneum (the rough outer layer of skin) so that dead skin cells may easily fall away.

 

Properties of EnzymesHelps even skin toneRedness diminished thanks to anti-inflammatory propertiesReduces pore sizeSmoother skin with fewer lines and wrinklesProvides exfoliation for better absorption of activesPromotes cellular renewal for a healthy glowSoftens and hydrates skin

Since many natural enzymes come from food, can I just buy them from the grocery store? Unfortunately no, enzymes can become very unstable once you remove them from their natural state. Take malic acid; it’s what makes a Granny Smith apple taste so tart, there is not enough of the acid found in the fruit itself to cause an effect on the skin. Therefore the ingredient must be distilled to concentrations that make it effective. Also, once you extract the malic acid, the pH becomes very hard to control, because it is a natural ingredient the pH can vary wildly which can make the ingredient overly active on the skin or render it completely useless.

Common enzymes and their label names you will see on ingredients listsMalic Acid (green apples)Cucurbita Pepo (pumpkin),Papain (papaya)Bromelain or Ananas Cosmosus (pineapple)

Thinking of adding enzymes to your routine? Our favorites are G.M. Collin Exfozyme with kaolin to soften and purify the pores and Jojoba Seed Oil that helps restore elasticity and balances moisture levels as you remove dead skin cells.

 

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